I loved New Orleans. It's a magical, spiritual and fun place to be in. If you are not drinking and partying hard you definitely should explore the city. I recommend to first take a tour, this way you will see the places you haven't seen in tourism panflets but that you want to visit again. The next day you should walk around the city with your own map. If there's a street that looks interesting, go and look into it. If there's a restaurant that looks good, you should go for it. Visit the stores (new and old) and ask the locals for places that are worth visiting.
What is certain is that magic can be felt floating in the air. The feeling of being watched is very strong; either when I was inside a store or walking on the streets, I felt something was with me ...specially at night time. The past is still present.